Hi, I'm Dot. Welcome to my pattern site.
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Thursday, April 01, 2004
Patterns on this site are all originals created by me and protected by copyright. They may be used for your own personal use, but please do not post them to any other site, or claim them as your own. If you have any questions, email me and I will reply to you as soon as possible.
I add patterns to this site as I develop them and post the new pattern pictures on top. Click on a picture or pattern name to be taken to that pattern.Thank you for stopping by and please come back again. I hope you enjoy the patterns you find here and if you make something from this site, I'd love to have a picture of your finished project or a note from you.
COPYRIGHT INFORMATION
Follow this link to learn how to print the patterns.
Dot
Posted at 11:50 am by bythehook7647
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Friday, April 02, 2004
Copyright © 2004 Dot Matthews
The following is my original pattern. If you have questions, please email me at bythehook7647@yahoo.com and I will try to answer your questions. If you find errors in the pattern, please let me know and I will make corrections.
Dot Matthews, 04/02/04
I used an H hook and WW yarn. And 2 Small rubber bands
Rnd 1) make 18 sc around a rubber band, join in back loop of first sc.
NOTE: beginning ch 3 counts as 1st dc.
Rnd 2) working in back loop only for this round, ch 3, 1 dc in same space as join, 2 dc in each st, around, join (total sts = 36)
Rnd 3) ch 3, dc in same space as join, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join
(total sts = 54)

picture shows first 3 rounds.
Rnd 4 - 8 ) ch 3, dc in each st.around, join (total sts for each round = 54)
Rnd 9 - 13) ch 1, sc in each st around, join
Rnd 14) ch 2, sl st in next st, * ch 2, sk next st, sl st in next st* repeat from * around, join
Fasten off and weave in ends.
pictures before adding poof on top
POOF at the top of the hat:
These stitches are worked in the unworked loops of round one.
Attach yarn in any unworked loop of round one.

picture shows where to attach yarn for the poof.
(Ch 10, sl st in same stitch) 3 times
sl st in next st, (ch 10, sl st in same stitch) 3 times. Continue around, having 3 ch 10’s and 4 sl sts in each stitch.
If you want a fuller “poof” do 4 chain 10’s instead of 3 in each stitch. If you want a bigger “poof”, chain 15 or 20 instead of 10.
Posted at 09:30 am by bythehook7647
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Saturday, April 24, 2004

copyright © 04/24/2004 Dot Matthews
07/02/04 This pattern has now been tested and corrections have been made in blue. I want to thank CatBookMom, aka Barbara, who took the time to identify the errors and email me with suggestions for corrections. Thank you so much Barbara, I appreciate your help.
This is my original pattern, I labored over every stitch, and wrote it all down as I went. I frogged it so many times I nearly wore out the yarn. That being said, please feel free to use this pattern in any way you want. I only ask that you give me credit (or blame me) for writing it, and pictures would be nice if you want to share.
Materials: I used ww cotton and a K hook.
Hat is worked holding 3 strands together.
Ch 3 counts as 1st st on every row. Do not turn rows unless instructed to do so.
ROW 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in 1st ch, join in top of beg ch. (12 sts)
ROW 2: Ch 3, dc in same space as joining, 2 dc in ea st around. Join in top of beg ch. (24 sts.)
ROW 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as joining. (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st)around. Join in top of beg ch. (36 sts)
ROW 4: Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, (dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around, join in top of beg ch. (48 sts)
ROW 5: Ch 3, dc in st to the right of the join (that's in the last dc of the previous row) sk next dc, dc in next st, dc in skipped st (that's the stitch you just skipped NOTE: this forms a crossed dc ), now working forward again, sk next dc, dc in next st, dc in skipped st around. Join in top of beg ch 3 (24 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 6: Repeat row 5
Row 7: Repeat row 5
Row 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1st Hdc), Hdc in ea st around. Join in top of beg ch 2(48 sts)
Working in back loop only
Row 9: ch 1, turn. Work in back loop only, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) repeat around. Join in 1st sc. turn (72 sts)
Row 10: (do not ch 1) work in back loop, only sl st in next 21 sts
Now, work in both loops, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 20 sts, sc in next 5 sts,
Now work in back loops only, sl st in next 21 sts around. Do not join, and do not turn. Mark beginning st with contrasting yarn or a stitch marker. (72 sts)
Row 11: Repeat row 10. (72 sts)
Row 12: Work in back loop only, sl st in next 21sts,
Now work in both loops, sc in next 5 sts,
(1 Hdc in next st, 2 Hdc in next st) repeat 9 times, sc in next 5 sts.
Now work in back loop only, sl st in next 21 sts around. (82 sts)
Row 13: Work in back loop only, sl st in next 21 sts, work in both loops sl st in next 40
Work in back loop only, sl st in next 21 sts around. (82 sts) Fasten off and weave in ends
Posted at 09:37 am by bythehook7647
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Wednesday, June 16, 2004
copyright © 06/15/2004 Dot Matthews

I and G hook
ww yarn - not sure of amount, my finished hat weighs 5 oz
This hat is fairly large and it "grows" as you are making it. You might want to take this into consideration and adjust your hook sizes to suit your own needs.
HAT
Ch 4, join
Row 1: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring. Do not join, use marker to show beginning of rows.
Work in back loop only on rows 2 through 25, leaving the front loop free to use later in the pattern.
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around.
Row 3: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around
Row 4: (1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around
Row 5: (1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around
Row 6: 1 sc in each st around
Row 7: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts) around
Row 8: 1 sc in each st around
Row 9: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts) around
Row 10: 1 sc in each st around
Row 11: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts) around
Row 12 - 25: 1 sc in each st around
CHAIN LOOPS (the chain loops are placed in the unworked loops of the sc stitches)
Ch 1, turn, sl st in free loop of last sc made, ch 10, sl st in same loop.
Sl st in free loop of next st, ch 10, sl st in same st. continue for 10 rounds or until it is as "fluffy" as you want it. fasten off and weave in ends.
Posted at 12:15 pm by bythehook7647
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Thursday, June 17, 2004
a child sized version of Half Looped
copyright © Dot Matthews 06/17/2004
I used ww yarn, H hook for hat and F hook for loops.
HAT
With larger hook (H), Ch 4, join
Row 1: Ch 1, 8 sc in ring. Do not join, use marker to show beginning of rows.
Work in back loop only on rows 2 through 20, leaving the front loop free to use later in the pattern. Numbers in ( ) at end of rows, indicates total number of stitches you should have at the end of the row.
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16)
Row 3: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
Row 4: (1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (32)
Row 5: (1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (40)
Row 6: 1 sc in each st around (40)
Row 7: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts) around (48)
Row 8: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts) around (56)
Row 9: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts) around (64)
Row 10 - 20: 1 sc in each st around (64)
AT END OF ROW 20, SL ST IN BOTH LOOPS OF NEXT ST.
SWITCH TO F HOOK
CHAIN LOOPS (the chain loops are placed in the unworked loops of the sc stitches)
With smaller hook, Ch 1, turn, sl st in free loop of last sc made, ch 10, sl st in same loop.
Sl st in free loop of next st, ch 10, sl st in same st. continue for 6 rounds or until it is as "fluffy" as you want it. fasten off and weave in ends.
Posted at 09:46 am by bythehook7647
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Thursday, June 24, 2004
Adult size
copyright © Dot Matthews 06/23/04
Pictures show adult size totally looped, child size frooty loops, and adult sized striped.
Materials used: ww yarn; K and I hook for adult size and K and G hook for child size. Larger hook to make the hat and smaller hook to make the loops.
Work stitches in back loops only. The unworked loops of these stitches will be used later in the pattern. The hat is worked in a spiral. Do not join rows unless stated. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning stitch of each row. Numbers in ( ) at end of rows states total number stitches for that row.
ch 4, join
Row 1: ch 1, 12 sc in ring. (12)
Do not join. Place marker in first stitch of each row to indicate the beginning of the row.
Row 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18)
Row 3: (1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24)
Row 4: (1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (30)
Row 5: (1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (36)
Row 6: (1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (42)
Row 7: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts) around. (48)
Note: the last stitch of row 6 has 2 stitches in it and the first stitch of row 7 also has 2 stitches in it.
Row 8: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts) around. (54)
The following rows are worked even over 54 stitches. No increases after row 8.
Row 9 - 20: 1 sc in ea st around. (54) Do not break off.
At end of row 20, sl st in next stitch.
Loop rows:
Change to smaller hook.
Loop row 1: Ch 1, turn, sl st in back loop of last sc you just made.
(Ch 10, sl st in back loop of next sc) around.
You will place stitches in the unworked loops of each stitch and follow the natural spiral of the hat
Loop row 2: (ch 10, sl st in next st) around.
Repeat row 2 until hat is covered.
When you reach the top of the hat, you may have to do a few more chain 10 loops and sl st in the very beginning ch 4 circle, placing sl sts between the sc's of the first row. This is just to hide the beginning circle at the top of the hat and may not be necessary.
STRIPED VARIATION:
Loop row 1: Ch 1, turn, sl st in back loop of last sc you just made.
(Ch 10, sl st in back loop of next sc) around.
Drop main color and attach contrasting color. Do not break off main color.
Loop row 2: with contrasting color, (ch 10, sl st in next st) around. Drop contrasting color and pick up main color. Do not break off contrasting color.
Loop row 3: with main color, (ch 10, sl st in next st) around
Repeat Loop row 2 and Loop row 3 for as many rows as you want.
You can stop half way up for a Half Looped look or you can continue with the loop rows until you completely cover the hat, to achieve the Totally Looped look.
CHILD'S SIZE
Row 1 - 7: same as pattern for Adult size. (48)
Row 8 - 18: 1 sc in ea st around (48) do not break off.
At end of row 18, sl st in next st.
LOOP ROWS:
Work same as adult size but ch 5 instead of 10 for the loops.
Posted at 09:51 pm by bythehook7647
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Wednesday, June 30, 2004
 

copyright © 06292004 Dot Matthews
K hook
WW yarn, white for main color, red and blue as accents.
Stitches used, chain, single crochet, double crochet and slip stitch.
With white:
Row 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in 1st ch, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch.
Row 2: ch 4 (counts as 1st dc and 1 ch), dc in next st, (ch 1, dc in next st) around, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch.
Row 3: sl in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch 1 sp) around, sl st in first sc to join
Row 4: ch 5, sc in next loop (place stitch marker in loop just made to show beginning of row), (ch 5, sc in next loop) around...I did not join this row, I just went on to row 5.
Row 5: repeat row 4
Row 6: ch 2 (the ending sc of row 5 and ch 2 count as 1st dc), 4 dc in same loop, (5 dc in next loop) around, join in top of ch 2
Row 7: sl in next st, sc in next, (ch 4, sk next 4 sts, sc in next st) around, ending with chain 4, sl st in 1st sc.
Row 8: sl st in 1st 2 ch in next loop, sc in same loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) around, ending with ch 3, join with sl in 1st sc.
Row 9: ch 1, sc in same sp, (3 sc in next loop, sc in next sc) ending with 3 sc in next loop, join with sl to first sc.
Note: end white, attach red
Row 10: ch 1, sc in ea st around. Join with sl st to 1st sc.
Note: end red, attach blue
Row 11: ch 1, sc in ea st around, join with sl st to 1st sc. fasten off and weave in ends.
Posted at 11:46 am by bythehook7647
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Sunday, July 04, 2004
copyright © 07/04/2004 Dot Matthews
 
 
K hook; small amounts WW yarn in red, white and blue or color of choice
finished hat uses less than 2 ozs ww yarn
Stitches used: chain, sc, dc, and tr
Starting chain counts as first stitch; numbers in ( ) at end of rows states number of stitches for that row.
ROW 1: with white, ch 4, 11 dc in 1st st, join in top of ch 3. (12 sts)
ROW 2: Ch 5, tr in same st as join, (tr in next st, ch 1, tr in same st) around. Join in 4th st of starting ch.
(24 tr and 12 ch 1 sps) fasten off white, attach red
ROW 3: ch 1, sc in same st, (sc in next ch 1 sp, sc in next 2 tr) around. Join in 1st sc. (36 sts) fasten off red, attach white.
ROW 4: ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in next st. (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts) around join in 1st sc. (48 sts) fasten off white, attach blue.
ROW 5: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts) around. Join in 1st sc.
(60 sts) fasten off blue, attach whitte.
ROW 6: ch 3, dc in st to the right of the join (that's in the last st of the previous row) sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st (that's the stitch you just skipped NOTE: this forms a crossed dc ), now working forward again, (sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) around. Join in top of beg ch 3. (30 crossed sts) fasten off white, attach red.
ROW 7: repeat row 6 (30 crossed sts) fasten off red, attach white.
ROW 8: repeat row 6 (30 crossed sts) fasten off white, attach blue,
ROW 9: repeat row 6 (30 crossed sts) fasten off blue, attach white.
ROW 10: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 2 sts, sc next 2 sts together (decrease made) (sc in next 3 sts, sc next 2 together) around. Join to 1st sc (48 sts) fasten off white, attach red.
ROW 11: sc in ea st around. Join to 1st sc (48 sts) fasten off red, attach white.
ROW 12: sc in ea st around. Join to 1st sc (48 sts) fasten off white, attach blue.
ROW 13: sc in ea st around, join to 1st sc (48 sts) fasten off. Weave in ends
Posted at 03:56 pm by bythehook7647
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Wednesday, July 07, 2004
OWATA HAT
copyright © 07/06/04 Dot Matthews
 
 

I HOOK (cuz that's what I had with me)
Finished hat measures 21 inches around but it fits on my 23 1/2 in head.
ww yarn small amounts of each, red; yellow; green; black or color of your choice
hat weighs approximately 4 ozs.
stitches used, sl st, sc, dc, tr
starting ch counts as first stitch, numbers in ( ) at the end of the rows states number of stitches for that row.
ROW 1: ch 4, 11 dc in 1st st, join in top of ch 3. (12 sts)
ROW 2: Ch 5, tr in same st as join, (tr in next st, ch 1, tr in same st) around. Join in 4th st of starting ch. (24 tr and 12 ch 1 sps)
ROW 3: ch 1, sc in same st, (sc in next ch 1 sp, sc in next 2 tr) around. Join in 1st sc. (36 sts)
ROW 4: ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in next st. (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts) around join in 1st sc. (48 sts)
ROW 5: ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts) around. Join in 1st sc. (60 sts)
ROW 6: ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts) around. Join in 1st sc. (72 sts)
ROW 7: ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts) around. Join in 1st sc. (84 sts)
ROW 8: ch 3, dc in st to the right of the join (that's in the last st of the previous row) sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st (that's the stitch you just skipped NOTE: this forms a crossed dc ), now working forward again, (sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) around. Join in top of beg ch 3. (42 crossed dcs)
ROW 9 - 17: repeat row 8. You should have 42 crossed dcs at the end of each row.
ROW 18: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in each st around. (84 sts)
NOTE: decrease rows start with row 19. For a larger sized hat, skip a decrease row and repeat row 18.
ROW 19: ch 1,sc in same st as join, sc in next 4 sts, sc next 2 sts together (decrease made), (sc in next 5 sts, sc next 2 together) around. (72 sts)
ROW 20: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 3 sts, sc next 2 sts together, (sc in next 4 sts, sc next 2 sts together) around. (60 sts)
ROW 21: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 2 sts, sc next 2 sts together, (sc in next 3 sts, sc next 2 sts together) around. (48 sts)
ROW 22: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Posted at 03:19 pm by bythehook7647
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Monday, July 12, 2004
copyright © 07/12/2004 Dot Matthews
a turban like skully
 
H hook will give a 23" hat
2 oz ww yarn
Number in ( ) at end of rows states number of stitches for that row.
Beginning ch 3 counts as 1st stitch. If you want to increase the length of the hat from crown to rim, repeat row 6.
Row 1: ch 4, 11 dc in 1st ch, join in 4th ch of beg ch. (12 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each st around. Join in top of ch 3. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around. Join in top of ch 3. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, (dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around. Join in top of ch 3. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, (dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st) around. Join in top of ch 3. (60 sts)
Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next st, around, Join in top of ch 3. (60 sts)
Row 7: Repeat row 6.
NOTE: The next 4 rows make up a "butterfly stitch". Here's a tutorial with pictures. BUTTERFLY STITCH
Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 24 sts, ch 10, sk 10 sts, dc in next 25 sts. Join to top of ch 3. (50 dc's and 10 chs) Note: Place a marker between the 5th and 6th skipped stitch on row 7, for stitch placement later in pattern.
Row 9: Repeat row 8.
Row 10: Repeat row 8.
Row 11: Ch 3, dc in next 24 sts, ch 5, insert hook in space marked on row 7, and draw up a loop around the chains of the previous 3 rows (see tutorial) and complete as a sc. ch 5, dc in next 25 sts. Join in top of ch 3.
Row 12: Ch 1, sl st in same st as join, (ch 1, sl st in next st) repeat to ch 5, sl st in each of next 10 chains, sl st in next st, (ch 1, sl st in next st) around. join in 1st sl st. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Posted at 09:49 am by bythehook7647
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